Someone Must Pay: National Identity and Politics in the World Cup

It is World Cup season and I spent my days in Paris, France. If you’re unfamiliar with the festivities, it is a world phenomenon that embodies the true meaning of national pride and identity. I was lucky enough to experience the games first hand.

Exiting the metro, the Eiffel tower was in sight. It is a beautiful structure. I have seen it in many pictures in text books, but the real thing is indescribable and needs to be seen. Larger than life, the tower lights up the night and sparkles every hour on the hour. On the south end of the French monument, there is a large screen that features the day’s games. The park is roughly a quarter mile long with a screen that can be seen by all. This night, it was USA versus Slovenia. This was perfect as I was able to be “American” without feeling the angst of being judged. There were roughly 300 Americans on this field waiting for the game to start; and very few opposing Slovenians. Sitting in our separate groups, everyone was secluded from one another. But when the US entered the field, the crowd stood and applauded with a thunderous roar. It reminded me what it meant to be an American. I felt pride for my country and was excited to hear the national anthem being played over the intercom. I did not feel alone in my cheer, this world cup was expected to attract 125 million viewers per game (http://www.football-marketing.com/2010/06/11/2010-world-cup-will-be-watched-by-record-number-of-viewers/). This is far more than previous years and I knew my friends at home were cheering along with me.

This was a very exciting game. The US was down two goals in the first half, but made a surge in the second to tie the game. Even though the game was a draw, both nationalities were able to respect one another and understand that it was a fantastic game for entertainment. Our group continued to sit on the lawn opposite of the screen for several hours. Here you can relax, talk with your friends, and drink the beverage of your choice. But later in the night it was evident that there had been a team that won. Walking down the large stretch a parade approached. I started to hear horns, then music, and then a distinct language that I was used to hearing in USA. Approximately 50 Mexicans were waving their flag in celebration. Over a microphone, they were cheering for their country and singing their national anthem. Champagne bottles exploded into the air. This means that France has lost! This is unthinkable for a team of such caliber and world renowned talent. Their last win was in 1998, but the team still holds records for most goals scored and best average goals per match (http://www.fifa.com/worldfootball/statisticsandrecords/associations/association=fra/worldcup/index.html). Even with this loss, I would have never guessed the reaction that spread through France.

My first encounter with the dismay was sitting next to a Frenchman at a restaurant. He knew we were into soccer and he described how he felt. To sum it up, he repeatedly called the French coach “a piece of shit” and then went on to translate it so we could join in with all of the other French patrons. But it was the next day that we realized the extent of the situation. The headlines read, “A State Scandal”. The team had refused to practice and a few directors walked off the field and retired. President Sarkozy intervened and vowed that he would personally investigate the situation. He said¸” "The head of state asked the ministers to ensure that those responsible learn the lessons of this disaster quickly” (http://www.baynews9.com/article/sports/ap/june/112591/Frances-World-Cup-team-arrives-back-home). This means that people will be fired in the name of France and their football team.

This situation shows how nations and their sports teams are one. France takes pride in their team and to be embarrassed, means someone will have to pay. These festivities are fantastic and fun, but when the president gets involved, there will be trouble.

The Unlimited Politics of France

Traveling to Paris during the World Cup was a once in a lifetime experience. Not only did Paris offer culture and history, it also gave us, as tourists, an insight into their nationalistic values. When I told friends and family that I was studying abroad in Europe this summer, they immediately questioned if I was traveling to France, Spain, or Italy. I think it is safe to assume that the politics of travel can help explain why these particular countries often get so much attention. With Europe being the world’s most important tourism destination, it is no surprise that certain countries and cities within Europe are especially symbolic. The Schengen Agreement, signed in 1985, allows for free movement between certain countries of Europe. This treaty is responsible for tourists, to travel throughout many parts of Europe without necessarily showing our passport. (http://europa.eu/legislation_summaries/justice_freedom_security/free_movement_of_persons_asylum_immigration/l33020_en.htm) The application of the Shengen Agreement was noted in our hassle-free travels from Luxembourg to Paris. Tourists from all over the world can appreciate this subtle ease in which travel is made. However, travel arrangements to symbolic cities, such as Paris, are not so simple when the middle of summer approaches with swarming travelers itching to get a reservation for the TGV trains.

When examining statistics, France was the third most popular tourism destination in 2007. Furthermore, the Ile de France ranked number one of the top twenty EU tourist regions. France also came in third when comparing tourism spending in Europe. (epp.eurostat.ec.europa.eu). Finally, the airports in France were one of the most popular ones throughout Europe. This can easily be correlated to the tourism that France is so accustomed to. The reasoning behind the popularity of Paris is hard to pinpoint. Whether it is the infamous Eiffel Tower, the prevalence of the city in modern-day films, or the connotation with romantics, Paris is surely an iconic destination. The politics of travel can be related to the politics of national identity, language, and culture associated with particular countries.

The French language can be related to their cultural as well as national identity. Before traveling to Paris, I naively could not shake the stereotype of the French and American tension towards each other, as portrayed in European Vacation. (http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0089670/). Once we arrived, it was rather intimidating hearing everyone around us speak French and not understanding the slightest bit of it. This, however, further emphasized the politics involved with language. France greatly contrasted to a country such as Luxembourg, which numerous languages are prevalent. The French language is obviously a unifying aspect of their everyday lives. One night in particular, we spent a few hours at a bar filled with local French students. All of them spoke English and explained that they have been learning our language since they were young. While on the topic of language, they admitted that they often question why most Americans speak English. It seemed difficult to explain to them any reasoning, except that this is simply a part of our culture. The 27 countries in the EU do, however, speak a multitude of languages, which accounts for a necessity to communicate with each other. The ease at which Europeans can travel and encounter various languages also creates the need to overcome language barriers. (http://europa.eu/languages/en/home). Some argue, however, that French is the most important foreign language to master. This source describes the usefulness of language in various affairs, as well as its prominence throughout the world. (http://www.fll.vt.edu/French/whyfrench.html).

The aspect of language seemed to be only a subtle part of their nationalist culture. Even when watching France play in the World Cup, their loyalty to their country was obvious. Behind the Eiffel Tower was a big screen TV set up to watch the games (this location is clearly political in its own sense). What better place to display your devotion to your country than a few meters away from this iconic French architectural masterpiece? While the people of France seemed to be unified in their allegiance during the broadcasting of the game, tension was possibly be boiling underneath. According to a 2009 article, a portion of the French population claimed that they were unhappy because the team is “not all really French”. After debate arose, the President launched a debate on national identity so that the people of France can: reassess their ‘definition’ of French, why being French is an honor, and what the French have to be proud of. If this motion by the President doesn’t define nationalism at it’s finest, then I don’t know what does. President Sarkozy states, “By abandoning what we stand for, we have ended up not knowing who we are. By encouraging self-hatred, we have closed the doors to the future.” (http://www.independent.co.uk/news/world/europe/frances-crisis-of-national-identity-1826942.html). So from the perspective of American tourists looking for an entertaining football game in Paris, it comes as quite the surprise that France had encountered such harsh scrutiny. On the other hand, the majority of the football aficionados in the streets of France proudly flaunted their culture and their team that represents so much more than a group of football players. They simply put any disputes behind them and lived in the moment of loyalty and admiration for their country in which they feel such a strong sense of nationalism towards.

Seeing the Arch de Triumph While France Fails

With the World Cup spinning full tilt, national pride is likewise turned up. Unfortunately, France fell victim to a brutal beat down at the hand of Mexico, losing 0 – 2 last Thursday. Though the World Cup is a short lived, temporary spurt of national unification, there are countless other aspects of any country that makes it proud of its’ culture and heritage. Paris, France, for example, is brimming with historical and cultural pride. Specifically, I visited the Arc de Triomphe which is seen as a national symbol of success. In looking at it, the Arc de Triomphe tells a story of Napoleons victories as a general as well as boasting its participation in several famous historical events. While visiting France, I was able to witness both shame and pride in their most pure forms to see how the French deal with both.

Walking through the streets of Paris, I could tell that the game had already started. Looking through windows as I passed, all eyes were glued to the TV and the football game that was unfolding. Team France was playing Mexico in the first round of the World Cup. Slipping into a bar, I ordered a beer and snagged a seat to watch the game unfold. When Mexico scored the first goal, it seemed like the whole building, including foundation, groaned. Optimistic reassurance seemed to be what was exiting peoples lips as the other viewers talked about whose fault it was and why that player wasn’t living up to the expectations that had been set. When the second goal slid past the French keeper in the 79^th minute, everyone gave up. People who were once fans were now turning their chairs from facing the TV and checks were requested from the bar. At this moment, the national pride that the French are known for amounted to nothing. Later, I spoke with a French girl named Sarah who said that she knows France won’t make it past this round so she said she isn’t even going to watch their 3^rd game.

That night, while sitting under the Eiffel Tower, several Mexican fans could be seen and heard. Cheering the Mexican songs and waving flags in a mocking manner towards all who would listen. Though I thought this to be an ill-advised display of national reverence, I had to respect them in a subtle way. Even though they are in the national capital of France, their pride in their nation was strong enough to risk being verbally and physically abused to show their support of Mexico. This, in my mind, was a perfect example of nationalism at its best and purest form.

Waking up the next morning, I decided to take a bus tour of Paris. One of the stops on the trip was the internationally recognizable Arc de Triomphe. Commissioned by Napoleon in 1806, he wanted there to be a memorial to honor the soldiers of his army. He told them that “You will return home through the arches of triumph” (parisdigest.com). You can sense the pride when you cans see all the names of the battles won by the French army written into the side of the 160 ft tall arch. Within the arch stands the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. There is an eternal flame that represents not only that soldier but all the soldiers who died fighting in both World Wars.

One of my favorite pieces of history about the Arch is that several conquering armies have walked under it. Most notably to Americans is the liberation of Paris in 1944. The troops marched through the Arch just as the Germans had done when they had conquered Paris. Several other armies throughout history have triumphantly marched through there and even though not all of them were allies to the French, it still shows how much of an international symbol of triumph it really is.

When standing under it, you can see the everyday life of people mixed very eloquently with this historical relic. In class, we learned about people living in the nation states and how they live day to day. With 10 streets running into it from all angles, this is a large round about for traffic that looks as if it is always busy. I wonder if the people who drive by this everyday look at it the same way that I do. I stand in awe of a symbol of French dominance while a steady flow of cars whiz by. Above is a picture of the Chance de Elysee from the base of the Arch. I also got a chance to hear from an audio guide on my bus tour about how every year, the Bastille Day Military Parage still marches through the Arch and down the street. This shows how every year, the pride of the nation faces to see troops march valiantly through it like so many have done before them. It truly is an arc of triumph.

Defining a nation is always hard to do. I can't say that I understand fully French culture but I can say that I have experienced and seen them at two different ends of the pride spectrum. Seeing the disappointment in the eyes of the people in the bar while watching the football team lose was humbling. Football is more than a game for these people. From witnessing that, to being able to see and touch the ultimate symbol of pride and dominance in France was something I will never forget. Even if the national team loses in the first round, they will still be welcomed by the people through the "Arches of triumph"

World Cup under the Eiffel Tower? Why not!?

The World Cup, which is played every four years, is one of the greatest unifying sporting events that takes place in the world. Nations rise up together to cheer for their team and follow every game like it’s the last one they would ever see. A true sense of nationalism comes out from each competing country during this one month spectacle and perpetuates throughout the entire world. So when I visited Paris last week, I knew that I wanted to watch the United States vs. Slovenia game somewhere near the Eiffel Tower in order to indulge myself into the city center and witness the World Cup craze first-hand.

Three of my friends and I heard of a place to watch the soccer game outside on a huge projection screen right behind the Eiffel Tower. It was called the International Fan Fest and is located in other cities throughout the world as well. We knew this was the perfect place to watch the game and planned to cheer our home team on and show our nationalism in front of the Eiffel Tower. After taking the metro and walking up through the Eiffel Tower, we were anxious to see the score because we were late getting to the festivities. We scurried up to the big projection screen and realized that we were down 1-0 already. However, this didn’t put a damper on our mood because when we looked around there were hundreds of fans screaming and watching the game on a mini soccer field that was lined with booths selling beer and sandwiches while the Eiffel Tower loomed over top of the screen in the background. It was truly an unbelievable sight to see.

As we ordered our pint of beer, we sat down on the field and looked around at the many different national soccer team jerseys that some of the fans were sporting. There were jerseys ranging from Algeria, Brazil, France, USA, Portugal, Slovenia, and Mexico. Noticing all of these different teams that were represented by their fans caused me to realize that nationalism is such a strong concept that is present throughout the entire world. Soccer epitomizes such strong nationalism and is such a nationalistic sport that it is often associated with globalization because it has been spread throughout the world. According to Franklin Foer in “How Soccer Explains the World,” he states that “the game seemed much further along in the process of globalization than any other economy on the planet.” When standing in front of the Eiffel Tower watching this game on the big screen, there was nothing that seemed clearer than that statement. I have never seen this much pride in one’s own country then when I was watching this soccer game. With all of the different countries widely represented, it was obvious that these fans came from all over the world to watch this game and cheer their country on in the World Cup.

Looking on into the distance and forgetting the intenseness of the game, I realized that the Eiffel Tower was a perfect example of what nationalism and national identity was all about. It was just a coincidence that one of the most recognizable structures in the entire world and a structure that serves as a symbol for Paris and France as a whole country loomed in the background of the soccer game. Staring at the Eiffel Tower, I thought of how incredible it is that this structure has been standing since 1889 and has given France something to view as a symbol of their national identity. Now, over a century later and after soccer has grown extremely popular throughout the world, national identity is not only being expressed through monuments and symbols, but it is being expressed through the game of soccer. Looking around at all of the USA fans and knowing that we shared an incredible bond because we were from the same country, I couldn’t completely fathom how incredible of a situation I was in. When we came back from a 2-0 deficit early in the second half and tied the game up 2-2, my fellow US comrades and I jumped up and down and gave each other high fives while chanting “USA-USA!” It was an unbelievable couple of minutes that I knew I wouldn’t get to experience in my life ever again. Although the game ended in a tie, it was something I would never forget no matter what the outcome.

To follow the World Cup live, visit http://www.fifa.com/.

“Soccer? Fútbol? Who Cares, That’s the Eiffel Tower!”

I sprint towards the metro station, looking ahead as my friends descend the escalator. The USA – Slovenia game is starting in fifteen minutes and we are only now arriving at the subway station. “The ride takes at least 20 minutes,” I think to myself as I begin to hop down the stairs. Reaching the ticket machine, I am once again surprised by the fact that my wallet is forgotten in Luxembourg. “Shit, I need some money!” Ben risks everything on a no-looker, behind-the-back toss, and a solitary two-euro coin somehow navigates its way over the ticket gate and into my desperately outreached hand. A one way metro pass and a quick sprint later, and I’m on my way to watch the World Cup in a setting where I would pay to watch “How It’s Made.”

When we finally arrived at the massive outdoor television screen, I realized that soccer is much more than a sport for many people, not only in Europe, but around the world. We got some drinks and found a spot to sit down on the crowded artificial soccer field below the TV. After some time, my gaze wandered to the top of the video screen. It was then that I realized where I actually was. Behind the massive TV was the towering steel structure known around the world as the Eiffel Tower. Only in Europe could 300 soccer fans crowd together on a field to look a television and not notice that the Eiffel Tower is 200 yards behind it. I began to wonder how important the World Cup must b

e to Europeans. The Eiffel Tower was built for the 1889 World’s Fair and is still the tallest building in France. It is 324 m tall and is easily the most recognizable structure in France, if not the world. Yet, I was standing in front of a glorified big screen TV, surrounded by 300 soccer fans, and not one of them was looking at the Eiffel Tower. But then, in the middle of my thoughts on geography, the US scored a goal to tie the game at 2-2. 80% of the crowd jumped to its feet and started yelling in 3 different languages. I was surprised at the number of Americans attending the game. It seemed like everyone around me was from Ohio. I knew that Americans travel more than most of the world, and attending a soccer game in France could prove that to anyone.

As the end of the game rolled around (still tied at two thanks to a nonsense call by one of the refs), I once again considered the paradox o

f 300 people sitting in front of the Eiffel Tower looking at a TV. Only then did I realize the impact that a sport can have on a culture. Soccer is as much a part of Europe as the Eiffel Tower. When I first arrived at France’s World Cup venue, I was surprised that people could concentrate on a soccer game with the Eiffel Tower looming in the background. However, by the conclusion of the game, I understood that soccer may well be as much a part of Europe as the Eiffel Tower.