Monday, 31 May 2010

Under the Big Top





If you asked any Parrothead (http://www.phip.com/) what they thought about being “under the big top,” they would probably talk about seeing Jimmy Buffett’s 2010 Under the Big Top Tour or possibly their feelings of his song by the same name. While these certainly worth talking about, there is another fascinating “big top” which is worth talking about. That is the Sacre Coeur church in Paris which boasts some of the largest domes you might find on European churches. Consecrated in 1919 the Sacre Coeur stands at 83 meters high, 83 meters wide and 35 meters long. (http://www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.com/us/basilique.html) The Sacre Coeur is a perfect example of Renaissance architecture (though it was built well after the renaissance movement) as defined by its heavy reliance on symmetry and its prominent usage of domes. It is also worth noting that the church incorporates Byzantine traits by using enormous and elaborate domes, unusual for Roman Catholic churches. Ironically the church is built on the top of a hill overlooking all of Paris and can be seen from anywhere in Paris. This is ironic because the Renaissance architecture movement was started as a reaction against the ornate Baroque period, rooted in classical styles with an emphasis on simplicity. One would expect, then, that a Renaissance church would be much more quaint and less of a prominent public symbol.


This paradox is what makes the Sacre Coeur so fascinating, and thus a place one must visit to truly experience Paris. The Sacre Coeur was built as more than just a building, it was also meant to be a symbol of French nationalism. As such it needed to be something big and noticeable, something which sent the message that France is powerful and wealthy. That explains why designer Paul Abadie chose to build such an iconic church in a very tactical location.(http://www.essential-architecture.com/ARCHITECT/ARCH-Abadie.htm)

(http://de.hotels.com/ImageDisplay?neighborhoodId=800104&type=NeighborhoodHighlight.htm)

So now when one visits the Sacre Coeur they are exposed to a unique mixture of messages. In my visit to the Sacre Coeur I was amazed by the beauty and the organic appearance of the church, then after my visit when I’d see the church from anywhere in the city I was reminded of the visit. This constant reminder is exactly what the French Catholics were hoping to create for visitors of Paris. This church works in convincing the visitor that the culture which built it had tremendous power and wealth. Even in realizing that showing off was one of their hopes, one is simply struck by the beauty and grandeur of the church. Quite simply put, it is a must see in the city of lights.

Another thing which adds to the mystique of the Sacre Coeur is that there is a rule against taking photos inside the church. Most European churches allow visitors to take pictures or ask that they take non-flash photography only. But the Sacre Coeur strictly prohibits inside photography at all. Due to that rule it is only in visiting the church that one can see what its inside looks like. To build suspense I’ll mention that the inside of the church is stunning and another perfect example of Renaissance architecture. Yet in the spirit of adventure and tourism I refrain from describing the particulars of the inside of the church, save that it has one of the largest tile arrangements behind the altar I’ve ever seen.

Yet amidst the awe inspiring appearance of the Sacre Coeur, there is a sense of humility you may feel around it. It is as if the massive edifice makes you feel small under its weight. But being in this environment is an experience you may find nowhere else. That is why I recommend exploring the church, because just as you might find at a Buffett concert, at the Sacre Coeur you are guaranteed to have a “big time under the big top,” and of course “there’s nothing wrong with that.” (http://www.buffettnews.com/resources/songs/?song=674)

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