Monday 21 June 2010

Seeing the Arch de Triumph While France Fails






With the World Cup spinning full tilt, national pride is likewise turned up. Unfortunately, France fell victim to a brutal beat down at the hand of Mexico, losing 0 – 2 last Thursday. Though the World Cup is a short lived, temporary spurt of national unification, there are countless other aspects of any country that makes it proud of its’ culture and heritage. Paris, France, for example, is brimming with historical and cultural pride. Specifically, I visited the Arc de Triomphe which is seen as a national symbol of success. In looking at it, the Arc de Triomphe tells a story of Napoleons victories as a general as well as boasting its participation in several famous historical events. While visiting France, I was able to witness both shame and pride in their most pure forms to see how the French deal with both.

Walking through the streets of Paris, I could tell that the game had already started. Looking through windows as I passed, all eyes were glued to the TV and the football game that was unfolding. Team France was playing Mexico in the first round of the World Cup. Slipping into a bar, I ordered a beer and snagged a seat to watch the game unfold. When Mexico scored the first goal, it seemed like the whole building, including foundation, groaned. Optimistic reassurance seemed to be what was exiting peoples lips as the other viewers talked about whose fault it was and why that player wasn’t living up to the expectations that had been set. When the second goal slid past the French keeper in the 79th minute, everyone gave up. People who were once fans were now turning their chairs from facing the TV and checks were requested from the bar. At this moment, the national pride that the French are known for amounted to nothing. Later, I spoke with a French girl named Sarah who said that she knows France won’t make it past this round so she said she isn’t even going to watch their 3rd game.




That night, while sitting under the Eiffel Tower, several Mexican fans could be seen and heard. Cheering the Mexican songs and waving flags in a mocking manner towards all who would listen. Though I thought this to be an ill-advised display of national reverence, I had to respect them in a subtle way. Even though they are in the national capital of France, their pride in their nation was strong enough to risk being verbally and physically abused to show their support of Mexico. This, in my mind, was a perfect example of nationalism at its best and purest form.







Waking up the next morning, I decided to take a bus tour of Paris. One of the stops on the trip was the internationally recognizable Arc de Triomphe. Commissioned by Napoleon in 1806, he wanted there to be a memorial to honor the soldiers of his army. He told them that “You will return home through the arches of triumph” (parisdigest.com). You can sense the pride when you cans see all the names of the battles won by the French army written into the side of the 160 ft tall arch. Within the arch stands the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. There is an eternal flame that represents not only that soldier but all the soldiers who died fighting in both World Wars.
One of my favorite pieces of history about the Arch is that several conquering armies have walked under it. Most notably to Americans is the liberation of Paris in 1944. The troops marched through the Arch just as the Germans had done when they had conquered Paris. Several other armies throughout history have triumphantly marched through there and even though not all of them were allies to the French, it still shows how much of an international symbol of triumph it really is.

When standing under it, you can see the everyday life of people mixed very eloquently with this historical relic. In class, we learned about people living in the nation states and how they live day to day. With 10 streets running into it from all angles, this is a large round about for traffic that looks as if it is always busy. I wonder if the people who drive by this everyday look at it the same way that I do. I stand in awe of a symbol of French dominance while a steady flow of cars whiz by. Above is a picture of the Chance de Elysee from the base of the Arch. I also got a chance to hear from an audio guide on my bus tour about how every year, the Bastille Day Military Parage still marches through the Arch and down the street. This shows how every year, the pride of the nation faces to see troops march valiantly through it like so many have done before them. It truly is an arc of triumph.

Defining a nation is always hard to do. I can't say that I understand fully French culture but I can say that I have experienced and seen them at two different ends of the pride spectrum. Seeing the disappointment in the eyes of the people in the bar while watching the football team lose was humbling. Football is more than a game for these people. From witnessing that, to being able to see and touch the ultimate symbol of pride and dominance in France was something I will never forget. Even if the national team loses in the first round, they will still be welcomed by the people through the "Arches of triumph"

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